Tucked away in an alley, this private-room-only restaurant combines the motifs of a Jiangnan garden and a typical Beijing courtyard house. The head chef, a protégé of a famous Beijing master, serves a season-driven menu, emphasising knife work, precise control of heat and balanced seasoning. His lion's head meatball with crab roe and matsutake in consommé is fluffy and flavourful. The sizzling eel strips see fine meat enrobed in a glistening soy glaze.