Upstream from Amboise, on the south bank of the Loire, this medieval castle with two massive towers, remodelled during the Renaissance, cannot fail but catch the eye. The establishment, which peacefully presides over vast formal grounds, is a staunch champion of the Loire’s gracious art de vivre. The orangery, part of which is built into the rocky hillside, is the epitome of elegant, and on sunny days it is a treat to sit on the terrace overlooking the gardens. Chef Arnaud Philippon's cuisine flirts with the zeitgeist: crispy sardines wrapped in fig leaf, sweetcorn and pumpkin seeds; Racan squab in raspberry vinegar, potatoes and tetragonia; hot soufflé with Touraine blackcurrants. Delicate craftsmanship, balanced flavours and locally sourced ingredients - what’s not to like?