Weekend: visit Genoa in three days

• Lunch
  Veering off Via Garibaldi, head for Via della Maddalena where the Panificio Focacceria Genovese Vittoria starts filling up with regulars at the end of the morning. Buy yourself a thin, crusty focaccia al formaggio and enjoy it while watching passers-by weave their way through the caruggi, narrow lanes that criss-cross the historic center.
• Afternoon
  From the old town, head for the Porto Antico, entirely rehabilitated in 1992 by architect Renzo Piano. The former 13^th century docks now open onto walkways, terraces and modern museums. There, cross Piazza Caricamento, lined with palm trees, and enter the Palazzo San Giorgio, a Gothic masterpiece adorned with trompe-l’œil frescoes depicting the fortunes of Genovese merchants. A bit further down, the Aquarium, one of the biggest in Europe, invites you on an underwater journey with sharks, jellyfish and manatees.
• Evening
  As the afternoon draws to a close, join in the passeggiata, the typically Italian art of a leisurely stroll. Saunter along the boardwalk in the renovated port, before taking a seat at Il Marin, chef Marco Visciola’s restaurant perched above the bay. From rockfish to vegetables from the Golfo Paradiso, his dishes celebrate the region with precision and elegance.

• Morning
  On Piazza De Ferrari, experience the beating heart of Genoa between the central fountain and the monumental facade of the Palazzo della Borsa. Visit the Palazzo Ducale, residence of the Doges in the 15^th century, where grand staircases and arcaded courtyards can still be admired. A few steps away, the Chiesa del Gesù displays an equally sumptuous Baroque decor, covered with paintings by Rubens and Guido Reni. Your next stop is the Cattedrale di San Lorenzo, a stand-out with its bands of black and white marble and sculpted portals. Its treasure includes medieval reliquaries and the legendary green dish (Sacro Catino), traditionally associated with the Holy Grail.
• Lunch
  Just next door, take a table at the Rosmarino restaurant whose famous trofie pasta al pesto is served with a generous homemade focaccia . Once you’ve had your fill, head for Via Balbi, a Baroque street originally created to reach the port from the town center.

• Morning
  You begin your third day on Piazza Banchi: this former stock exchange square is lined with loggias, covered galleries that allowed merchants to conduct their business out of the sun. Take Via San Luca to Palazzo Spinola di Pellicceria, a 17^th century palace which houses striking Flemish paintings and a magnificent hall of mirrors. Continue to Via di Prè and the San Giovanni di Prè church, fortified during the Crusades. A five minute walk brings you to the Galata – Museo del Mare whose collection of navigational instruments, maps and a submarine recount 500 years of maritime history.
• Lunch
  At lunchtime, head for the trattoria Santa Teresa. Try the mandilli al pesto, thin pasta flavored with basil, or the cappon magro genovese, a vegetable and fish millefeuille typical of the Ligurian coast.
• Afternoon
  After lunch, visit Santa Maria di Castello, one of Genoa’s oldest neighborhoods. Its steep narrow streets, built on the Roman castrum, will lead you to ancient and simple churches: inside Santa Maria di Castello you can admire 15^th century frescoes, while San Donato boasts a precious Flemish triptych. End your visit at Piazza Dante, flanked by twin medieval towers, before making your way to Via XX Settembre, a street lined with arcades and multicolored mosaics.
• Evening
  Early in the evening, head to Boccadasse, a former fishing village which is now part of the city. A series of pastel facades descend in tiers to the small pebble beach. Take a seat at Santamonica, right on the waterfront, to enjoy a tasting menu featuring local seafood. As the sun melts into the sea and voices mingle with the surf, soak up this last magical moment before leaving Genoa.

From Porto Antico, take a boat to Camogli, a port nestled at the foot of the Portofino promontory. Walk along the seafront to San Fruttuoso abbey, accessible by boat or via a steep path. Savor this peaceful spot to extend your stay in Genoa.