Take a trip to Ravenna, a Byzantine gem in Emilia-Romagna

Back in the city, you discover the Neonian’s Baptistery (Battistero Neoniano), near the cathedral. Inside, raise your eyes to admire a spectacular cupola. This radiant work depicts Christ immersed in the Jordan, surrounded by John the Baptist, a river god, and a procession of apostles. The decor is teeming with details, but each one remains legible.

Not far away, the Arian’s Baptistery is more pared-back. Young and beardless, Christ takes pride of place in the center of the composition. There are no crowds or animals, only an azure circle that surrounds the scene. The contrast is striking; the style fundamentally different: you get a measure of the diversity of religious sensibilities in 6^th-century Ravenna.

Ravenna does not only preserve its ancient mosaics, it also produces more of them. As an introduction, step into Annafietta, a discreet studio and shop a stone’s throw away from San Vitale. You will discover contemporary objects crafted using traditional tiles. Everything here is made using techniques inherited from Byzantine artisans.

Further away, Koko Mosaico takes you behind the scenes of how mosaics are made. Situated opposite Sant’Apollinare Nuovo Basilica, the studio lets you explore at your leisure and offers introductory lessons. You can try your hand at cutting glass, drafting a preparatory design, and arranging the shapes. In two or four hours, compose your own decorative fragment, guided by enthusiastic designers.

Finally, head to the Monastery of Santa Maria in Porto, where the Museo d’Arte della città di Ravenna (MAR) gives mosaics a contemporary dimension. Under the vaulted galleries of the former cloister, stroll among one hundred or so 20^th-century paintings, sculptures, and installations, created in response to Byzantine heritage. Your gaze focuses on the material, motifs, and light — clear continuations of medieval mosaics. This immersion reaches a peak during the Biennale of Contemporary Mosaics, scheduled from 18 October 2025 to 18 January 2026, when the entire city turns into an international showcase for creativity.

Where to have lunch in Ravenna? The osterie to try at the heart of the city

At lunchtime, head to Antica Trattoria al Gallo 1909, a historic address nestled in a calm narrow street. There, you can savor classic dishes from Romagna: cappelletti in brodo, braised meat, and summer vegetables. If you prefer fish, book a table at L’Acciuga. The menu is based on the catch of the day from the Adriatic and changes with the seasons: grilled sardines, clam risotto, sea bream fillets.

What specialties can you taste in Ravenna?

You can’t leave the Italian city without tasting its traditional piadina, a flatbread stuffed with fresh squacquerone cheese and crunchy arugula, or its cappelletti in brodo, small stuffed pasta parcels cooked in a clear, aromatic broth. Take advantage of its proximity to wetlands to try grilled eels, a strongly flavored regional dish. And to finish, a ciambella romagnola – a dry cake to dip into coffee – awaits you at Alpine Enogastronomia in the city center.

If you have time, head northward in the direction of Po Delta Regional Park. In 45 minutes, you reach the lagoons of Comacchio, the largest brackish wetland in Italy. When you arrive, stroll along flat paths that wind among the reed beds, keeping an eye out for herons, avocets, and sometimes even flamingos.

For a more gentle outing, jump on a bike and cycle along the canals to San Vitale Pine Forest. The journey lasts around fifty minutes. Stroll through a typical coastal forest, in which maritime pines alternate with dense undergrowth. The salty air blends with resinous scents as you move toward the sea.

By car, head toward the south to the Cervia salt pans. On foot or by boat, you can explore the outdoor ponds where many migratory birds also pass by. Guided tours allow you to understand the salt cycle, from pumping to crystallization. At sunset, the water turns different colors depending on the light: pink, copper, mauve, and pearly gray. A changing palette that at times echoes Ravenna’s mosaics.