From San Sebastián to Bilbao, a road trip along the Spanish Basque coast

You begin this journey in San Sebastián, facing La Concha Bay, one of the most beautiful on the Spanish coast. On your right, the waves caress the golden sand; on your left, the elegant Belle Époque hotels are a testament to the town’s seaside refinement. Behind the facades along the seafront, you enter the Parte Vieja. The atmosphere here is completely different and the narrow streets come to life from late morning onwards. Stroll among the old shops, enjoy a few pintxos snacks at the bar, and lift your eyes up to the ironwork; local history is everywhere to be found, for instance in Plaza de la Constitución, a former bullfighting ring that can be recognized by its numbered balconies. Not far away, in a 16^th-century convent, San Telmo Museum retraces the history and culture of Spain’s Basque Country. Then take the funicular railway to the top of Mount Igueldo. From its height, amidst pine trees and the shouts of children in the theme park, you can enjoy the lookout point and a spectacular view over the bay. Your gaze turns to the west, where the GI-3440 coastal road begins, heading toward Getaria.

30 kilometers from San Sebastián, Getaria appears nestled between sea and cliff, with its steep narrow streets and stone houses. You are in the birthplace of Juan Sebastián Elcano, the first sailor to circumnavigate the world in 1522; a statue commemorates his feat at the entrance to the village. In the port, the restaurant terraces fill up from lunchtime onwards. Here, you can savor fish grilled over a wood fire, accompanied by a glass of txakoli, the local slightly sparkling white wine. Before climbing up to the old village center, it is worth taking a look in the Gothic church of San Salvador: built on the rocks, it has a rare sloping nave!

You leave the coast to reach Guernica, a town that is a symbol of Basque memory. The town still bears the traces of the bombardment of 1937, immortalized by Picasso; to find out more, visit the Peace Museum (Museo de la Paz), which explores the history of conflicts and human rights. Continue along a narrow road that climbs toward the Balcony of Bizkaia. At the top, it offers a panoramic view spanning the whole vast and silent valley, barely ruffled by the wind or the clinking bells of a flock. A different atmosphere but the same moment of reflection awaits you at Zenarruza Monastery, as you take the time to contemplate its sober but majestic cloister.

You return to the coast and enter Urdaibai Biosphere Reserve, a vast area recognized by UNESCO for the wealth of its natural environments. Wetlands, cliffs, forests, beaches: there is a perceptible change in the landscape as the kilometers go by. In Gautegiz Arteaga, make a stop in the bird observatory. From the huts on stilts, you can spot egrets, black storks, and sometimes an osprey hovering above the water. The pace slows down again during a kayak or paddleboard excursion in the estuary. You move forward, borne by the currents, and after two or three hours of navigating the calm waters, come to shore on Playa de Laida, a long stretch of sand opening onto the Atlantic Ocean.

On the rugged coast of the Bay of Biscay, the silhouette of San Juan de Gaztelugatxe stands out starkly against the waves. This medieval hermitage stands on a small island connected to the mainland by a stone bridge and a staircase with 241 steps. From Bakio parking lot, it is around a twenty-minute walk through rocks and open vegetation. Once you have reached the top, ring the bell three times in keeping with tradition and let your gaze wander to the jagged cliffs. A number of scenes from the series Game of Thrones were shot here and experiencing the location for yourself is quite something: the wind, the emptiness, the sea all around… The setting is impressive, even without a camera!

Your last detour before Bilbao: Getxo, an elegant coastal stop with 19^th-century villas and a fishing port from another age. In the Puerto Viejo, you spot nets hanging on the walls, a testament to a nautical way of life that continues today. You then reach the cliffs of Algorta. Stop and rest on a bench facing the Atlantic, with your gaze lost toward the horizon; in the distance, the industrial structures of the estuary contrast with the red tiled roofs. As you go up along the coast, you soon spot a metal silhouette above the water: the famous Vizcaya transporter bridge, a UNESCO World Heritage Site that has connected the two banks since 1893. On foot across the pedestrian walkway or in the gondola just above the water, you reach the other shore in just a few minutes.

The first unmissable place to see in Bilbao: the Guggenheim Museum, with its titanium lines and avant-garde artworks. A ten-minute walk takes you to the Fine Arts Museum, where you will discover a rich collection ranging from Greco to modern Basque artists. At lunch, find a spot at a bar in Siete Calles, the historic center, to enjoy a few of Bilbao’s specialties and watch the regulars come and go. Then head to El Ensanche, an elegant district that tells of the rise of the bourgeoisie in the early 20^th century. On foot or by tram, Bilbao is a multifaceted city that is easy to explore: working-class streets, opulent buildings, redeveloped docks, and more. As you wander around, keep your eyes open to what its contrasts reveal.