A road trip around the Gulf of Morbihan, from Port-Navalo to Pointe de Kerpenhir

The road trip starts at Port-Navalo, in the village of Arzon at the tip of the Rhuys Peninsula, facing the mouth of to the Gulf of Morbihan. This is where the sea and the Atlantic Ocean mix in a spectacular display of clashing currents. Head for the Port-Navalo lighthouse, from where you can see the panorama stretching out to the offshore islands and hear the crash of the surf. From here, take the coastal path, following the jagged rock line to the Petit Mousse tomb. This modest but moving cenotaph is a stark reminder of the tragic fates of the young sailors who died at sea. 

Before Saint-Gildas-de-Rhuys, stop off at the Cairn de Petit-Mont. Built above the ocean, you can see the burial chambers in this thousand-year-old tumulus where the very walls whisper stories from the ancient world. Then you reach the village of Saint-Gildas, built around the abbey founded in the 6^th century. From here, take the Route de Rohu to the large beach of Kerver, lined with dunes and marshes; take your time and have a barefoot walk on the warm sand, breathe in the iodine scent of the ocean on the breeze, and watch the wading birds living in this unspoilt natural area. The dunes behind are a windbreak shielding a bird sanctuary where herons and terns nest.

Head west to discover the Suscinio Castle, remains from the time of the Dukes of Brittany, still standing amidst ponds and meadows. Your tour begins in the ducal apartments, back in 1485, just as negotiations raged regarding the future marriage of Anne of Brittany. The banqueting room, the Duke’s private bedroom, the Duchess’s wardrobe… The tour is fascinating, revealing a glimpse of life in the Middle Ages. Outside, the 65-hectare-wide marshes of Suscinio come to life: you can watch white spoonbills and grey herons shuffling quietly through the reeds.

Next, Saint-Armel and the Lasné salt marshes. This is where sea salt is still traditionally harvested as it was in the past, using the wind and the sun. There are guided tours to get immersed in the daily life of the salt workers and their age-old expertise. The salt-laden air lets you slow down and watch the salt workers as they harvest the white gold of the Gulf with precise, sure motions. Run your hand over the still-moist salt crystals, let their slightly abrasive texture soak into your skin and leave with a bag of fleur de sel: a tasty, iodised souvenir of this authentic time among the salt marshes.

Coming to Vannes makes for an urban incursion into this trip across Morbihan. Around the Saint-Pierre cathedral, the historic centre boasts an exceptional medieval heritage with tall ramparts, timber-framed houses and elegantly manicured gardens. Stroll along the paved streets, browse the colourful market stalls on the Lices square, before heading for the port, and the relaxing sight of the ballet of sailing boats.

At lunchtime, try the restaurant Iodé. They serve all the flavours of the sea – Breton oysters, stuffed clams, seaweed butter – in inventive and deliciously cooked dishes.

After this veritable feast, head to the Conleau Peninsula for an after-meal stroll along Pointe des Émigrés to enjoy the peaceful landscape and the wheeling seabirds.

From Conleau, a shuttle boat, the Petit Passeur, takes you to the Séné Peninsula. As soon as you step off the boat, you’ll notice the peace and quiet and the change in landscape: salt marshes, mudflats and wet meadows provide a haven for hundreds of species of birds. Following the coastal paths, you can use a bicycle or walk through the Séné nature and wildlife reserve, one of the largest protected areas in the Gulf, shaped by winds and tides. Take your time to see the red-winged godwits, elegant avocets and, with a bit of luck, you might even spot some white spoonbills. To finish off this leg of the journey, sit down at Captain Marée to enjoy some fresh oysters with a glass of Muscadet, gazing out at the Gulf as the day draws to a close.

Let’s head for Larmor-Baden next. From the port, a short boat ride takes you to the island of Gavrinis. This unique site hides a 5,000-year-old cairn whose walls are carved with mysterious motifs representing bows, axes and spirals, the symbolism of which remains unexplained today. You can cross on foot to the neighbouring island of Berder at low tide, when an underwater causeway briefly emerges, linking the mainland to this little gem of nature. From there, follow a 2.6 km path planted with pines, holm oaks and cypresses gently caressed brushed by the breeze, discovering a few discreet coves as you go along. Following the shoreline, you’ll come to a ship graveyard and the striking sight of beached hulls gnawed away by time and salt.

Welcome to Auray, where Saint-Goustan boasts one of Brittany’s best-preserved harbours. A former hub of trade and fishing, this area has retained its connection with the ocean, as you can see in its busy quays and 18^th century buildings. While you are here, why not stroll past half-timbered facades and craftsmen’s stalls, before crossing the old stone bridge over the Loc’h River. Further along, a stroll along the Quai Abbé Joseph Martin takes you to calm waters, where gentle wavelets lap against boat hulls. Finally, have some lunch at La Chebaudière, a charming restaurant where the scents of grilled fish and salted butter herald a generous and authentic cuisine.

The trip ends in Locmariaquer, where you will be able to see the most impressive megaliths in the Gulf of Morbihan. The Table des Marchands and its carved dolmen, the Grand Menhir Brisé and its scattered fragments, the Mané Lud tumulus with its millenia-old burial chambers… Facing the River Auray, half a dozen dolmens, monoliths and cairns weather the erosion of time, silent immobile witnesses to forgotten pagan rites. Finally, you reach Pointe de Kerpenhir for a final tête-à-tête with the sea. In front of you, the Atlantic and the waters of the Gulf clash in a chaos of waves, constantly sculpting the landscape. In the distance, the Lighthouse of La Teignouse signals to the sailors. Feel the wind buffeting your face and breathe in the sea air one last time before driving off.