Discovering Rioja, a region of Spain shaped by its vineyards

You then arrive in San Vicente de la Sonsierra via the LR-210, a side road running through the vines. In this section covering barely five kilometers, the river becomes the guiding thread: sometimes visible below, sometimes hidden, it structures a landscape of hillsides and cultivated terraces to the village of San Vicente, perched at the top of a small hill. Built in a late Romanesque style, the Church of Santa María la Mayor stands at the edge of a steep slope, in the shadow of a medieval castle with several surviving towers and ramparts. Below, the old bridge spans the Ebro for more than 200 meters: its nine yellow sandstone arches have linked the region’s two winegrowing banks since the 12^th century. From the heights, let your gaze follow the rows of tempranillo — the local black grape — all the way to neighboring Rioja Alavesa.

Moving away from the grape varieties, you reach the plains surrounding Santo Domingo de la Calzada, one of the main stops along the French Camino on the way to Santiago de Compostela. Founded in the 11th century to welcome pilgrims, the town is organized around its Gothic cathedral, flanked by a beautiful Baroque bell tower. Step through the doors to see an unexpected element: a chicken coop with a live rooster and hen housed in a medieval tribune. This singular detail refers to the miracle of the “chicken that sang after being roasted,” a legend associated with the town since the 14th century. Continue with a walk along the ramparts before hitting the road again to the mountains.

The main village in the Sierra de la Demanda, Ezcaray stretches around a steep-sided river, lined with covered galleries and flower-decked balconies. Stroll around Plaza del Quiosco, take a look at the ancient lintels above the boutiques, and then go into the workshops of the Mantas Ezcaray manufacturing company. They have been weaving mohair scarves and blankets there since 1930, using a blend of craftsmanship techniques and vivid shades. The clicking of the looms marks the visit, surrounded by stacks of rolls and spools of yarn. A signposted trail then takes you to the Mirador of San Torcuato. From this promontory, the view stretches to the village, the wooded slopes, and the peak of San Lorenzo in the distance. In the evening, sit down to eat at El Portal de Echaurren, a family-run address awarded two stars in the Michelin Guide.

In San Millán de la Cogolla, two Benedictine monasteries each overlook a wooded slope. Begin with Suso, the oldest monastery nestled against the rock. It is visited on foot, in silence, in a cloister partly consisting of caves, decorated with Visigothic columns and sculpted sarcophagi. Founded in the 6^th century, the place bears witness to the beginnings of Iberian monastic life. Further down, Yuso Monastery is more expansive in size, with a Baroque facade, a church with white vaults, and a rich library with manuscripts dating from the 10^th century. You can admire Glosas Emilianenses, a work containing the first known written traces of Castilian. This rich heritage and linguistic treasures have earned the site UNESCO World Heritage status.

Continuing toward the east, you reach Rioja Baja, a drier, craggier region. The village of Soto en Cameros is the gateway to the incredible Leza Canyon cut out of red-toned rock. A trail, which is demanding (a two-kilometer trek with an 800-m elevation gain) but offers a series of beautiful viewpoints over the cliffs, begins on the heights. You make your way slowly, watching the wild vultures that soar above the gorge, sometimes skimming along the ridge. When the weather is fine, booted eagles and short-toed eagles join this spectacular ballet in the air.

The final stop is Logroño, Rioja’s cultural capital. Walk up Calle Portales, covered in arcades, then pass by Santa María la Redonda Cathedral, which can be recognized by its two symmetrical bell towers. A stone’s throw away, the Museum of La Rioja looks back over the region’s history in an 18^th century palace, with a dense collection of archeological objects.

In the late afternoon, the Ebro’s tree-lined promenade takes you along suspended walkways and banks planted with poplars. Then make your way to Calle del Laurel, with its array of pinchos bars. At Umm No sólo Tapas, located in an adjacent narrow street, savor a mouthful of marinated red tuna, mature cheese or grilled mushrooms with a glass of graciano (in moderation).