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While the world clamors for a taste of Thomas Keller's renowned cooking, lucky Napa locals can make their way down the street from his flagships to easy breezy Ad Hoc. Hugely homey, this rustic-chic spot with wood residing everywhere is always crammed with locals and tourists. The set menu is served family-style and may underscore such teasers as an elegant salad of little gem lettuces, romaine hearts, beets, and brioche croutons in a tangy herb vinaigrette. Buttered radishes and pea-and-potato salad finished with bacon crumbles and dill are perfect complements to the best fried chicken ever —crisp-skinned, briny, and moist. For the big win, dive into a cheese course revealing tangy cheddar and crisp puff pastry licked with vanilla-pear compote.