It’s impossible to be glum at Jaleo. This Spanish jewel is unafraid of color and pattern, and flaunts such decorative accents as mounted bear trophies and convoluted art installations. Of course, that table you’re eating on doubles as a foosball table for a lively duel in between courses. Cocktails are enticing, so sip on the magic mojito strained over cotton candy. The mood may be fun, but the food is seriously good (this is a José Andrés venture, after all). Some of the standouts from this kitchen are the simplest-a white bean salad tailed by the razor-thin crust of the pan de cristal con tomate. But don't forget about that jamón-the 48-month cured jamón ibérico de Bellota is not to be missed. The hits keep coming here, so save room for a bit of sweet. - MICHELIN guide inspectors