Strict rules and big rewards unite at this zany, unusual and randomly located (in a mall) dive, where Chef Steve Sawa rules the roost. After going through the rigmarole of landing a reservation for his omakase-only affair, throw all caution to the wind and just go with the flow. Yes, the décor is nothing special; however, the food is anything but so-so, and the ad hoc prices are quite high. So what draws such a host of regulars? Their pristine and very sublime fish, of course-from creamy Hokkaido sea scallops to delicious toro ribbons. Sawa is also an expert on sauces: imagine the likes of yuzu kosho topping kanpachi, or a sweet-spicy tamarind glaze on ocean trout. Accompany these with a top sake or cold beer and feel the joy seep in.
MICHELIN guide inspectors
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