This is the sort of place you’ve walked by a hundred times and never noticed, but look up, because the house-made tofu here is unrivaled. The space may be more functional than cozy, but this staff knows how to treat their customers—from welcoming each table with a succulent assortment of banchan to happily adjusting a dish’s spice level. They also clearly know the many secrets of tofu: the kitchen makes its own, on view at the front of the restaurant, then deploys it in a series of silken soondubu (soft bean curd stews). Served scalding hot in a ddukbaegi or glazed earthenware cauldron, this bubbling piquant broth contains your choice of pork, seafood or even beef intestine. But kimchi, the funky favorite, is the hands-down winner.
- MICHELIN guide inspectors