As its name suggests, the appeal of these three branches lies with their old school glamour, both in terms of food and décor. Museum pieces like a two-centuries-old train carriage in the garden are certainly a draw. But it's the food that keeps customers returning. The classic 'lion head' pork balls are revamped with catfish mixed in for more complex flavours and a velvety texture. Try also their smoked pomfret in their house-blended soy sauce.
- MICHELIN guide inspectors
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