Identifiable by the aroma of wood smoke that surrounds it for a block in every direction, this barbecue-slinging dive is wildly popular. Read: plan on a wait in the smoker-ringed parking lot if you want to dine at prime meal times. Accommodations are beyond basic, with tattered booths and disposable servingware, but service is friendly, and something about the lack of ambience amplifies the gustatory pleasure. Indeed, there is plenty of pleasure to be found on the combination plates, especially the signature pork ribs-smoky and well-seasoned, they fall off the bone. Order them in a combination plate of peppery brisket or juicy pulled pork, along with a cornbread muffin and tasty, smoky beans with burnt ends. This is pigging out at its finest.
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