Sushi-seekers should take a pass, but those yearning for elegant, traditional Japanese food will find kindred spirits at this precious gem. The serene, ultra-minimalist dining room isn't fancy, with only a few shelves of ceramics as décor. But the older Japanese women in traditional garb who run the show are endlessly polite and attentive, so long as you're not raising a din-or requesting a spicy tuna roll. The eight-page menu offers a head-spinning number of options arranged by ingredient, like umami-rich wilted mizuna salad with fava beans and bonito sauce, or pale green edamame tofu with fresh cherries, cherry blossom noodles, and a sour-salty cherry paste. The exquisitely moist and flaky black cod, grilled with a slightly sweet sake marinade, is revelatory.
MICHELIN guide inspectors
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