This is the rare restaurant that guarantees its diners will never be bored, thanks to the sophisticated energy that flows directly from a notably ambitious kitchen. Service is friendly and attentive. Sure, they may make an error in describing a dish, but they do it with panache. The gorgeous space has that Nordic look that California so loves, with plenty of bare wood, skylights, and an affluent crowd appearing informal in their Patagonias. Be sure to try one of their clever cocktails, like the savory and refreshing house martini, finished with a droplet of rosemary oil. The reasonably priced prix-fixe begins with snacks and moves on to family-style dining. Sunchokes are at the center of an exceptionally good combination of crisp roti, buttermilk-sunchoke-ranch dressing, thin slices of turnip, radish, artisanal cheese, and Burgundy truffle. Slow-cooked rabbit is enriched with dark jus and smoked prune romesco. When they hit their mark, food like this transcends its ingredients and technique to result in something genius. When they occasionally miss it, you feel like you've eaten a plate of weird vitamins. Desserts like "deluxe" vanilla ice cream are far more decadent than they sound.
- MICHELIN guide inspectors