Everyone at this inviting space is warmly professional, including the eager, well-paced staff. Add in the architecturally detailed dining room-a hybrid between your grandmother's home and a minimalist art gallery with its black-and-cream palette, leather banquettes, and vintage chandeliers-and you'll be counting down the days until your next visit. Small but mighty, the kitchen turns out a seasonal, seven-course fixed menu that consistently pleases. A meal here might begin with candied limequat rind, briny sea beans, and light uni foam to flavor slices of sweet, silky scallops. Savory granola, served with roasted cauliflower and creamy sweetbreads, unites with trumpet mushrooms to form a perfect textural counterpoint to the smooth cauliflower soup poured tableside. And pork done three ways presents the loin dusted in pastrami spices; an exquisitely tender belly; and block of fried pork jowl set against pickled fennel and Satsuma segments. Meyer lemon curd, sweet and tart with cranberry sauce, is a sublime dessert-but it's the intensely rich chocolate ganache, set over a bay leaf and chocolate cake crowned by pistachios, that showcases the technical prowess of this gifted kitchen.
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