With its sleek booths, wall-to-wall windows, plush carpeting, and pristinely robed tables, this elegant oasis in the Taj Hotel is as formal and traditional as one would expect. A striking blown glass chandelier hanging from the coffered ceiling adds an element of the unexpected. An odd mix of gourmands and hotel guests keep the vibe at Campton Place desultory inside, but by greeting each diner as they enter, the staff maintains a sense of refinery that is true to this contemporary Cal-Indian menu. The full talent of this kitchen is showcased in the seven-course vegetarian or Spice Route non-vegetarian tasting menus. Courses arrive on charcoal-glazed ceramics and allude to Indian spices. This is illustrated in puffed black rice-coated lobster dressed with a coastal-inspired coconut curry poured tableside. Other dishes like battered and fried cauliflower with creamy rice and turmeric foam, or black cod set atop vibrantly spiced green papaya cover all bases of flavor and texture. Just as slow-cooked meat dishes have an elegant undertone of garam masala, a dessert like pumpkin cake served with refreshing Buddha's hand sorbet is sprinkled with colorful spices for an enticing presentation.
- MICHELIN guide inspectors