Know that the ambience is pleasant, the space is elegant, the service team is quick and polite, and the food is consistently excellent. Also, know that you probably won’t have a hard time getting a reservation at this InterContinental Hotel restaurant—Luce is often inexplicably empty. Let its lack of popularity be your reminder to come here when looking for a little privacy—think date night. Soaring ceilings, dark and dramatic spherical lights, a transparent wall of wine bordering the kitchen, and shiny cushioned banquettes give the dining room a sumptuous, airy feel that promises the high level of luxury echoed in the cuisine. This may be one of the city’s more venerable mainstays, but a contemporary sensibility is clear throughout the décor and menu. Luce serves breakfast, lunch, and brunch, but dinner is when the serious diner arrives for an altogether stellar experience. Highlights include a generous portion of perfectly white halibut poached in California olive oil and placed on a colorful bed of fresh shelling beans with artichokes and clams. Desserts may combine the wonderfully light flavors of sweet corn panna cotta with kernels of honey-caramel popped corn and huckleberry compote.
- MICHELIN guide inspectors