Owner Cindy Pawlcyn may be a nationally renowned chef, but a meal at Backstreet feels like dining in a friend's home-albeit a well-appointed one with great food. From a blossoming garden retreat to the capacious dining area, this space is warm and comfortable. If there's a wait, be sure to perch at the bar, where genial regulars are happy to welcome new diners to the fold. The cooking is eclectic and ingredient-driven, from the pristine tomatoes in a "Vietnamese vinaigrette" with fish paste, lemongrass, and Thai basil, to the radishes, crisp arugula, and tender chicken in a creamy curried salad. Enjoy it all with an excellent glass of local Chardonnay, and save room for the tart lemon buttermilk pudding cake with raspberries and crème fraîche.
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