Located in an industrial stretch of Ridgewood, this inventive pizzeria more than lives up to its creative name. Taking residence in a repurposed brewery built in the late 1800s, the red brick structure sits near the borough’s massive cemeteries where this establishment’s namesake has been laid to rest. While the “lab” isn’t especially large, it feels cavernous nonetheless thanks to immensely high ceilings, a sparse arrangement of tables with views of the cement dome oven, and an ample covered terrace. This kitchen whips up a small but selective menu of salads and wood-fired pies that includes the Houdini Green-a chewy crust spread with quality sauce and topped with fresh mozzarella, creamy knobs of goat cheese and flame-kissed veggies.
- MICHELIN guide inspectors