Nestled at the base of The Helmsley building near Grand Central lies Bobby Van's, a perennial favorite of the expense-account set. Its classic steakhouse atmosphere-gruff but prompt service, noisy post-work bar scene, and gargantuan portions-is met with commendable dishes that reach beyond the normal chop shop fare. While the beef speaks for itself, the kitchen's execution takes common combos to the next level: mozzarella and tomatoes are drizzled in flavorful balsamic and olive oil with a chiffonade of basil and shallots; while soft-shell crabs arrive perfectly battered and tempura fried. This massive special, with crisp asparagus and bed of sautéed spinach, showcases great culinary technique and seasonality not expected from a midtown lunch hangout.
- MICHELIN guide inspectors