No playful pun, no name-check for grandma, no oblique reference to a geographical landmark-whoever christened this restaurant clearly wanted to attract a certain type of customer. This is not the place where you should order by pointing vaguely at the menu-that way lies trouble because you may find yourself having to re-mortgage your apartment to pay for the 250 grams of Osetra caviar you've just inadvertently requested. Best leave that section of the carte to the oligarchs and retired dictators and concentrate on the main menu. Here you will find contemporary dishes of surprising delicacy and precision, with a pleasing bias towards wonderful seafood and shellfish, such as scallops with ricotta gnudi, or delicious bluefin tuna with uni and asparagus. You get buzzed in at street level, which adds a bit of mystery to proceedings. Up the stairs and you'll find yourself in a lavish little jewel box, with colorful murals on the wall, Murano chandeliers hanging from an ornate ceiling, and semi-circular booths. The only thing missing is James Bond's nemesis drumming his fingers on the table in the corner.
MICHELIN guide inspectors
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