Hidden along a workaday street in Gramercy, just adjacent to the Park South Hotel, this lively sushi den keeps things sleek and stylish. A small line of banquette tables hug a wall, offering a cozy seating option, but arguably the best place to be is at the lovely wooden counter, where guests can watch the talented itamaes (up to five at a time) up close and personal. O Ya offers nigiri, sushi, cooked vegetables and meats-and many of the à la carte items make appearances in their wonderful omakase. The endless array of service pieces are stunning, almost to the point of distraction, but in the end the food is the star. On the surface, this is Japanese cooking, but the kitchen uses its high-end ingredients to creatively push the boundaries.
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