“How many?” That’s the greeting at this temple of “ma la,” where enticing aromas are sure to lure you in. Find yourself among executives and locals slurping up a host of chili oil specialties (don’t wear white!). This is the kind of place where dragons go to recharge their breath. Some may peruse the menu-filled with typos-for daily specials, but most blaze their tongues with Sichuan pickles or chilled noodles tossed in an intense sesame vinaigrette. The place is named after a humble dish, but many items surprise with bold flavors like silky fish fillets swimming in a spicy broth with Napa cabbage, or camphor tea-smoked duck. Peppercorns in stir-fried chicken unite subtle sweetness with intense heat, while sponge squash offers a cooling, textural finale.
- MICHELIN guide inspectors