The specialties of India's southern coastline are the focus at this gratifying Shiva Natarajan venue. Named after the tart tropical fruit, Kokum is prettied by a mural of fishing boats on a sandy stretch and exposed filament bulbs reflecting warmly off bronzed mirror panels. Delights from Kerala, Chennai, and Mangalore anchor the menu. Roasted in a banana leaf with diced tomato and spices, the fish pollichathu is infused with sweetness and accompanied by fried tapioca root. Kori gassi is chicken in a rich curry containing plenty of dried red chilies but tempered by coconut milk and flecked with curry leaf. Carb fans can't resist the fragrant mound of vegetable biryani, drizzled with saffron butter, topped with fried onions and crushed papadum.
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