Austrian cuisine is known for being hearty and immeasurably satisfying, but the great strength of Wallsé is that you don’t have to have spent the day skiing in Innsbruck to appreciate its cooking because the adept kitchen has a lightness of touch and is not rigidly tied to tradition. There are some foods that just feel right at certain times of the year. When the nights draw in and there’s a little chill in the air, there are certain words whose very presence on a menu summon feelings of comfort and warmth—and those words surely include spaetzle, schnitzel, and strudel. Whether you’ve chosen the gamey and fork-tender venison cheek goulash or have gone for the tafelspitz, you’ll find that the dishes here are harmonious, nicely balanced, easy to eat, and even easier to return to enjoy again and again. The restaurant is divided into two rooms, both dominated by striking paintings that may even portray the chef himself. The clientele is a largely sophisticated bunch with an inherent understanding of how restaurants work which, in turn, creates an easy, relaxing atmosphere. The wine list also merits examination, if only to discover there's more to Austrian wine than Grüner Veltliner.
- MICHELIN guide inspectors