239 West Broadway will be a familiar address to those who know their restaurants as it has hosted a number of seminal establishments over the years—namely Montrachet and Corton. Drew Nieporent’s Bâtard restaurant is now firmly in situ and once again we have a talented chef making waves in TriBeCa. Chef Markus Glocker’s cooking is very precise and his dishes look quite delicate on the plate. But like a good featherweight they pack more of a punch than you’re expecting. You’ll even notice his Austrian roots in evidence in some of the dishes, such as short rib and tafelspitz terrine, or the Granny Smith and sweetbread strudel. The room is comfortable and neat and the atmosphere grown-up yet animated. When it comes to service though, it appears that the restaurant has mistaken informality for indifference as it lacks coordination or direction. So you may need to remind yourself that you're here primarily for the food. But that food is very good indeed.
- MICHELIN guide inspectors