If crowds indicate quality (and downtown they often do) then this clear favorite is still going strong, even after 20-some years. Loyal customers as diverse as the city itself flood this long bar and richly colored room for lunch, dinner or just for a finely mixed cocktail and snack. Flowers give the space a touch of luxury; Moorish lanterns add warmth. The pleasures here are the straightforward items, which arrive courtesy of Chef/owner Jimmy Bradley. Begin with umami-rich and visually stunning roasted broccoli, finished with slivered almonds and parmesan shavings, before moving on to a crisped tranche of salmon crowned with peekytoe crab in saffron aïoli. Finish in style with a perfectly composed pistachio semifreddo draped with dark chocolate sauce.
- MICHELIN guide inspectors