It's the way of the modern world that we think of the changing of the seasons more in terms of our wardrobe rather than our food-but a meal at Kajitsu could change that. This Japanese vegan restaurant serves shojin cuisine based on the precepts of Buddhism-if you're in search of an antidote to the plethora of steakhouses in the city, this is it. The traditionally decorated space on the second floor is a sanctuary of peace and tranquility and offers table or counter seating and service that is as charming as it is earnest. Such is the skill of the kitchen you'll forget in no time about the absence of fish or meat. It's all about balance, harmony and simplicity-and allowing the ingredients' natural flavors to shine, whether it's the delicate onion soup with mizuna and potato, or the visually arresting hassun which could include everything from mountain yam to burdock root. Your period of contemplation and newfound respect for your fellow man may come to a juddering halt when you find yourself back on Lexington but, for a few moments at least, you'll feel you connected with nature.
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