Another offspring in Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s ABC family, and his first vegetarian restaurant, may have been long in the planning but its confidence is writ large: this isn’t about vegetables impersonating protein—it’s about giving them star billing in their own right. Behind the glass wall, his kitchen uses plenty of modern techniques to produce dishes that are perky, colorful and satisfying. The best options are those of international provenance, such as spinach spaghetti with broccoli and kale; and creamy tofu with crispy yuba and ponzu. White, bright but dotted with color, the room shouts freshness and vigor; the vibe is fun and hearteningly devoid of New Age smugness or pious worthiness. Just check your coat and your prejudices on your way in.
- MICHELIN guide inspectors