After three decades, change is afoot at this tried-and-true Manhattan culinary institution, and while that can be exciting in itself, there are certain aspects of this iconic dining room that will always remain unchanged. Donning just the right amount of glamour to add to any sense of occasion, this warmly lit space is helmed by a personable team who makes every diner feel like they’re in safe hands. This is also the type of establishment that exudes old-school New York from its every pore—and is ideal for those for whom eating out is a visceral pleasure, rather than something to be photographed, posted, and blogged. The cooking walks a pleasing line between comforting and creative and never feels faddish or contrived. In a refreshing break from current mores, dishes are more about flavor than presentation—and their size bears witness to the largesse of the kitchen. Though far from avant-garde, the likes of a well-prepared tuna tartare or roasted rack of lamb with wilted spinach and potato purée will never go out of style. Soufflés here are perfection and the best way to end a meal, as in the summertime-sweet sour cherry, accompanied by a scoop of simple vanilla ice cream.
- MICHELIN guide inspectors
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