This New York institution has become an iconic part of the Union Square landscape. The stately building is a former bank, with century-old architectural details and marble aplenty. As the name would suggest, the menu leans heavily on seafaring classics with an ample raw bar and sushi counter. But more than anything, this kitchen aims to please, with starters like pork belly sliders topped with tangy fennel-lettuce slaw on a brioche bun. Octopus tentacles are crisp yet perfectly tender inside, served resting atop chickpeas with a deep-red tomato and roasted pepper ragout infused with smoked paprika. Fish is always perfectly handled and often rises well above its accompaniments on the plate. Live jazz is a nightly draw to the downstairs lounge.
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