Heavy iron candelabras, crumbling stone walls, and communal wooden tables lend a sultry vibe to this underground labyrinth, named for a Venetian bacaro (or counter for casual grazing of snacks and wine). The first floor's marble-topped bar beckons for small bites and a glass of wine, while nooks beneath those low stone ceilings in the downstairs dining room call for a romantic evening over candlelight. Crafted by Frank DeCarlo, the same chef/owner of Peasant in NoLita, Bacaro's menu highlights the best of Venetian cuisine. Bigoli con sugo d'anatra brings together whole-wheat pasta with tender, pulled duck, a tomato-cream sauce, and shavings of salty parmesan. For dessert, the velvety flourless chocolate cake topped with dried apricots, is as decadent as the setting.
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