There’s no sweeter greeting than the aroma of wood smoke that beckons diners into this downtown standout. And with its Neapolitan pizza oven, sunny textiles and exposed brick, Oenotri—from an ancient Italian word for “wine cultivator”—looks as good as it smells. Chef/owner Tyler Rodde imbues the cooking of Southern Italy with a dash of Californian spirit. From the pasta to the herbs, nearly everything is made from scratch or from the garden. Bountiful salads top every table, but those seeking meatier eats should start with the charcuterie, cured in-house. Options change seasonally, but pizza is a must. Torchio, or torch-shaped pasta, with diced roasted winter squash, toasted pine nuts, fried sage and a drizzle of brown butter is a close second.
- MICHELIN guide inspectors
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