Long waits for a great Chinese meal are common on the Peninsula, which makes this as yet line-free favorite doubly special. The space is no-frills, but the kitchen is all-thrills, knocking out classic dish after classic dish: crisp Chongqing-style fried chicken buried under a mound of dried chilies and numbing peppercorns, tender pork wontons swimming in gloriously mouth-searing chili oil, and chewy dan dan noodles tossed with ground pork, peanuts, and plenty of chili oil. As with all Sichuan restaurants, those who can't stand the heat will have a hard go of it, but non-fiery options include a flaky rolled beef pancake and garlicky pea shoots. The moral of this story: while Yummy may not be anyone's idea of high style, the food assuredly lives up to its name.
- MICHELIN guide inspectors