To find Katsuno, look for the white lantern and those traditional noren curtains. Featuring less than ten tables, what this jewel lacks in size it makes up for in flavor and attitude. The owner’s wife greets each guest at the door, while Chef Katsuyuki Seo dances around the miniscule kitchen crafting precise Japanese dishes from top-quality ingredients. His elegant plating of sashimi may reveal the likes of amberjack topped with a chiffonade of shiso, luxurious sea urchin, translucent squid crested with needle-thin yuzu zest, as well as luscious fluke, tuna and mackerel. Meanwhile, carb fans will enjoy a bowl of warm soba in duck broth with tender breast meat; or the fantastically brothy inaniwa udon, served only on special nights.
- MICHELIN guide inspectors