There may be glitzier Korean spots in town, but insanely delicious, exceedingly simple Sik Gaek assures a good time, every time. Dressed in silly costumes, the staff is always having a blast in this seasonally decorated shack-like dining room featuring corrugated metal roofs, street lights, buckets for shells, and walls papered in dollar bills. Booths along the edge are filled with noisy regulars. The kitchen serves the ocean's bounty, starting with a deliciously crisp and gargantuan pancake, pajeon, studded with seafood and kimchi begging to be dipped in enticingly salty soy-sesame sauce. A cloudy soup bobbing with tofu arrives piping hot, boasting that sharp, nutty, telltale flavor of fermented bean curd, and seems to have its own restorative powers.
MICHELIN guide inspectors
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