It's a real journey to this Taiwanese treasure-not only in its trek from the closest subway stop, but more importantly, in the experience. Here, the staff speaks their mother tongue for the most part, incense wafts from an altar, and the food is otherworldly. Dishes present dazzling, authentic flavors, easily savored in the peaceful atmosphere. Sweet, head-on shrimp arrive steamed and still in the shell, housing juice that accentuates the concentrated flavor when dipped in soy sauce. Likewise, the stinky tofu (a traditional delicacy) gets its flavor from a light sauté and a finish of kimchi-style pickles. And if you're any sort of fan of the famed oyster pancake, this outstanding version will remain in your memory long after the lengthy ride home.
- MICHELIN guide inspectors