Gifted cooks have been setting up in Elmhurst to show off their skills, but the chef/visionary of this modestly decked, massively popular Henanese gem has been a fixture from the start. Seat yourself inside the butterscotch-hued room, surrender to the affable staff, and await a memorable feast. Opening this culinary show are pickled cucumbers and briny bamboo shoots with mushrooms, followed by pan-seared lamb dumplings or hugely fortifying "Dial oil" noodles sautéed with dried red chilies. For the consummate finale, pre-order "Taosibao," an impressive showpiece of rice-stuffed quail inside a squab, inside a chicken, inside a duck. Not only is this trumped-up version of turducken technically superb, but every element is flavored by an aromatic broth.
MICHELIN guide inspectors
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