There comes a point when pared-down style jumps from being easy-to-miss and becomes hard-to-forget. When a utilitarian and self-consciously bare-bones interior becomes attractively modern and industrial. When a lack of any FOH staff makes the service seem playfully all-hands-on-deck. The explicit rap music in the background reflects the deeply talented chefs’ ethos, going well beyond laissez-faire to reach the point of “we don’t give a damn. ” You probably won’t either once you taste the food—not every dish works, but when it does, the result is sublime. Chef de Cuisine Norman Fenton makes his mark on this menu by way of the inventive "Welcome to Schwa" dish, unveiling a spicy Bloody Mary-inspired drink and crisp, savory waffle. The latter is intended to accompany the highlight of the course, namely: two rows of vibrant purées that spell out the greeting in Morse code. Such technical trickery continues into a plate of homemade pappardelle, laced with beurre monté and paired with peas and uni bubbles; or poached foie gras, delicately laid over trumpet mushrooms and mango gel. Aged Parmigiano Reggiano with caramelized banana, nori, and Manuka honey presents an enticing blend of sweet and savory.
- MICHELIN guide inspectors
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