With only 20 seats, this tasting-menu retreat is serious yet intimate, boasting marble-topped tables, plush seating, and glamorous gold accents. But it has a playful spirit as well, as seen in the black-and-white portraits of Lollapalooza alumni that line the walls. Across both omnivorous and vegan prix-fixe menus, Chef/partner Matt Kerney displays a tongue-in-cheek wit to his creations. Find evidence of this in his potato-chip ice cream, which mysteriously evokes a classic bag of Lay’s with added zing from bursts of Osetra caviar. Pristine spring pea soup gets extra flavor from a sausage-stuffed rabbit loin and coins of pickled carrots. Finally, a dash of yuzu brightens luscious scallops in beurre blanc. It's a cool, clever twist on contemporary fare.
- MICHELIN guide inspectors
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