Inside this stand-alone structure in booming Bucktown, find a chicken wire-caged pantry stocked with jars of red pepper, black vinegar, and other pungent edibles—all of which appear again in the food on your plate. Offerings at this hip haven crisscross the globe. Chef Edward Kim has a vivid imagination and his cooking takes detours through delicious landscapes. Start with empanadas full of Oaxacan cheese, kimchi, and served with a chimichurri-crème fraïche. Then, calamari bokum is wok-fried with spicy gochujang, crisped potatoes, and topped with crushed peanuts, but for a soothing signature, opt for boat noodles in a beef shank broth with pickled serrano chiles, prik phon rua, and fried shallots. Do keep an eye out for the special Chinese New Year menu.
- MICHELIN guide inspectors
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