Dining here feels like attending an underground dinner party prepared by a merry band of misfit cooks in Chef Phillip Foss’ home (he lives right upstairs). There is one seating, everyone is served at the same time, and meals are prepaid so guests can linger or leave at their leisure. The fact that the restaurant resembles a test kitchen is heightened when guests are told to manage their BYO beverages themselves and cooks deliver dishes to your table. Don’t worry—they turn the music down so you can hear each description. Yet this is all part of the show; it’s a fun, friendly, totally unique experience. The cuisine follows suit and works wonders by pushing—if not completely disregarding—the traditional boundaries of cooking. Outlandish surprises begin with tosaka (Japanese seaweed) accompanied by chopped raw scallop topped with creamy scrambled eggs, Ghost pepper-infused caviar, and shaved air-dried tuna. A humble sounding “ham and cheese” is actually intensely savory jamón Ibérico beneath a dome of fragrant black truffles and cheese fonduta over house-made potato bread. Finish with a bowl of playful nostalgia that tastes better than childhood: chocolate cake batter with spatulas for licking it up.
- MICHELIN guide inspectors