Tucked behind a little beer bar in Greenpoint, it doesn't get a lot more hip than Luksus at Tørst. The man to thank for this den of Scandinavian deliciousness is Daniel Burns, who took a chance on a highly unique concept and never looked back. It's a lovely and snug space with a lot of heart, but what keeps people loyal are the culinary surprises that the passionate Burns brings to the table again and again-along with a downright magical bread he bakes on premises. Inside the small room, the open kitchen teems with activity. A handful of tables and stools lining a counter offer great views of the action-the effect is something like having an amazingly talented chef cook privately in your home. Burns and his sous chef hand-deliver each dish, always with an explanation and sometimes, if you're lucky, with a second helping of that fabulous bread. Dinner might include creative dishes like one of cabbage chips dusted with smoky paprika; or a pristine, deep-fried oyster surrounded by cauliflower custard. Silky pork neck might get paired with roasted parsley root and crabapple purée. Save room for inventive desserts like parsnip ice cream, featuring crispy, wafer-like studs of chanterelle.
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