Chef Joaquin Baca's handiwork at Brooklyn Star displays a fun and creative streak that yields admirable results. Pork chops are brined with molasses, striped bass is poached in duck fat, and roasted chicken is glazed with sweet tea and plated with dirty rice. Gluttony will convince you to bolster a meal here with bacon-jalapeño cornbread or buttermilk biscuits. But, let restraint chime in with a tasty raw kale salad; starring golden raisins, toasted peanuts, lemon vinaigrette, and a lacy cheddar crisp on top, it's pleasure on a plate. Though the focus is on the eats, the room is comfortably outfitted with brick red terrazzo floors and grey-trimmed walls. Blonde wood tables are set with bottles of hot sauce, pepper vinegar, and wild flowers.
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