This industrial bi-level space has a rather iconic setting along the waterfront, between the Brooklyn and Manhattan bridges. Dark wood dominates the light-filled interior, amid metal accents and walls that sprout greenery to soften the room. The food may have a farm-to-table focus, but a contemporary tilt is clear in everything that emerges from Atrium's bustling open kitchen. Elegant "baby greens" arrive as enticingly charred root vegetables over peppery arugula coulis; whereas crisply seared red snapper served over wild rice with dashi-simmered baby turnips, meaty mushrooms, and finished with a rich fumet makes the chef's (Laurent Kalkotour) French heritage abundantly clear. The chocolate-dipped crème fraîche and quark cheesecake is deservedly popular.
- MICHELIN guide inspectors