Neither fancy nor innovative, there is a certain heartwarming quality that makes this an easy place to return to time and again. Couples often settle in the lounge near the fireplace, while larger groups gather in the elevated dining room for platters of hot antipasti. White leather chairs, cotton panels, and rustic tables lend a breezy feel. Italian and Italian-American classics span the wide menu-from grilled calamari with a tomato sauce topped with peppers and olives, to ridged tubes of manicotti stuffed with ricotta, pecorino, and cooked in a meaty Bolognese, finished with rich béchamel. Brick-oven pizzas are always worthy orders, especially the Calabrese decked with spicy soppressata and a few dollops of mozzarella.
- MICHELIN guide inspectors