Look completely past the strip mall location and head into this storefront for some of the more nuanced Thai cooking around. Pop music and colorful plastic tablecloths create a leisurely, relaxed mood, so place your order and head to a table on the patio. This kitchen is helmed by an ex-Hawker Fare chef, so expect spice blends and house-made curry pastes at the base of each dish. The menu is small but mighty, with items that exude a playful spirit. Nowhere is this clearer than in the "party wings," which sound like a good time but in fact have great depth of flavor. The som tom is an idyllic toss-up of shredded green papaya as well as dried shrimp and long beans pounded together with fish sauce, sugar and lime for a dreamy bite of cool, sweet and heat.
- MICHELIN guide inspectors