Astoria is awash in good Greek food, but Bahari Estiatorio still sets itself apart. Hiding behind an unassuming façade, the dining room is clean, generously sized and simple-think exposed red brick, white walls, and tables draped with paper placemats featuring the Greek Isles. Service is friendly and knowledgeable. Everything on the menu here is a temptation, but a collection of traditional casserole dishes under the mageirefta portion of the menu offers the coziest of baked Greek dishes. One example, saganaki methysmeno, arrives bubbling with caramelized kefalograviera cheese, and a tomato and red wine sauce. Papatsouki, or tender roasted eggplant stuffed with ground beef and a layer of fluffy caramelized béchamel, is deliciously decadent.
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