This old-time idol deserves its landmark status as it has been going strong since opening in 1973. With Italian-American cooking so rampant in the city, it's wholly refreshing to happen upon a classic of such welcoming comfort. The décor is outdated, but white tablecloths are clean and crisp, and glasses gleam at the prospect of great wine varietals. With a trio of pasta, you needn't choose between fusi swirled in a grappa- mushroom- and Grana-sauce; squid ink taglierini; or maltagliati in a roasted tomato and basil sauce with a touch of cream. Spiedini alla Romana sees thick slabs of focaccia and mozzarella dredged and fried, served with an anchovy and caper sauce, and pork osso buco is of the falling-apart-tender variety-perfect with the velvety polenta.
- MICHELIN guide inspectors